Hi, it’s Mandy, and I just returned from two transformative weeks exploring Tanzania’s Southern Circuit with Asilia Africa. This wasn’t just a trip—it was an adventure through untouched wilderness, a deep connection to nature, and truly unforgettable!
Dreaming of a safari without crowds? The Southern Circuit offers awe-inspiring landscapes and unforgettable, personal moments you’ll never forget! Endless baobab-dotted plains to remote wetlands teeming with wildlife, this journey was all about contrasts, discovery, and pure magic. Let me walk you through the highlights—and trust me, you’ll want to add this to your bucket list.
Arrival in Arusha
I began my journey in Arusha, the gateway to Tanzania safaris. After arriving at Kilimanjaro International Airport, I checked into Arusha Coffee Lodge, a serene retreat nestled in a coffee plantation.
Highlights of Arusha Coffee Lodge:
- Spacious rooms with private porches overlooking the plantation.
- A coffee tour where you can learn how Tanzanian coffee is made.
- Onsite boutique featuring Tanzanite jewelry and local crafts.
- This peaceful start to my trip allowed me to recharge before heading into the wilderness.
Tarangire National Park
After a 2.5–3-hour drive from Arusha to Tarangire, I arrived at Oliver’s Camp, near the wildlife-rich Silale Swamps. Tarangire is known for its dramatic baobab trees, vast savannahs, and some of the largest elephant herds in Africa. It’s a park that feels wild and untamed, perfect for those seeking raw safari experiences.
Where I Stayed:
Oliver’s Camp by Asilia Africa, near the Silale Swamps, is the perfect base for exploring Tarangire’s incredible ecosystems.
What Makes Oliver’s Camp Special:
Located near the Silale Swamps, an area teeming with activity and stunning scenery.
The guides at Oliver’s Camp are wildlife experts who made every drive exciting. Each day brought new sightings, from lions resting in the shade to herds of elephants gracefully crossing the plains.
Sundowners at Oliver’s Camp were unforgettable—watching the sunset with a drink in hand, the view was pure magic.
The food at Oliver’s Camp was incredible—fresh, local, and made with care. From healthy breakfasts to dinners under the stars, every meal felt special.
Tarangire doesn’t mess around—it was the perfect start to my journey and an unforgettable introduction to Tanzania.
Wildlife in Tarangire:
Staying at Oliver’s Camp, near the Silale Swamps, put me in the heart of Tarangire’s diverse and abundant wildlife. Spotting a leopard lounging in a tree was unforgettable. It was such a classic safari scene, and I couldn’t take my eyes off its effortless elegance.
The elephants here steal the show. I loved watching playful calves splash around while their moms stayed close by. Seeing so many herds near the swamps was unforgettable—it felt like they were everywhere, and I couldn’t get enough!
Another unforgettable moment was spotting a python coiled in the shade near the swamp. It gave me chills—it’s not every day you see one of these!
And the birdlife? Even as someone who isn’t a birder, I was amazed by Tarangire’s colorful and diverse birds. From the vibrant lilac-breasted rollers to massive storks and herons, the park felt alive with their songs and activity. The Silale Swamps, in particular, were a haven for birdwatching, and I found myself constantly reaching for my binoculars.
Tarangire’s ecosystem, with its iconic baobabs, sprawling savannahs, and life-giving swamps, creates the perfect stage for these wildlife encounters. Every game drive felt like a new adventure, and I left Oliver’s Camp with a whole new appreciation for Tarangire.
Overnight in Dar es Salaam
After Tarangire, I took a 2-hour bush flight to Dar es Salaam and spent the night at Four Points. This conveniently located hotel offered a comfortable stopover before my journey to Ruaha. Flights to the southern circuit, depending on the season, all go through DAR. So this overnight stop is essential if traveling during the low season.
Ruaha National Park
From Dar es Salaam, I took a 2-hour bush flight to Ruaha National Park. My stay at Usangu Expedition Camp and Jabali Ridge highlighted the park’s stunning landscapes and incredible wildlife. Visiting both areas is essential to fully experience Ruaha’s unparalleled diversity.
Where I stayed:
Usangu Expedition Camp (Southern Ruaha)
The Camp:
Usangu Camp by Asilia has a powerful story. This area was once heavily poached, and the bikes and canoes you see around camp were left behind by former poachers. Asilia built the camp to help restore the land and provide jobs for those who once relied on poaching. It’s a testament to their dedication to conservation and giving back to the community
Activities at Usangu:
What makes Usangu truly unique is its focus on conservation and science. One of the highlights of my stay was participating in the camera trapping program. I worked with the camp team to set up motion-activated cameras in key areas, then returned 24 hours later to see what the cameras had captured. Watching footage of nocturnal wildlife, like hyenas and civets, was both fascinating and rewarding.
Another standout activity was the night drives. These drives revealed a completely different side of the bush, with sightings of bush babies. It was thrilling to explore the park under the cover of darkness, with nothing but the glow of the moon and our guide’s spotlight. The highlight, though, was spotting a pack of African wild dogs—an incredibly rare sight
The Dining Experience:
The meals at Usangu were a delight. From bush breakfasts in the middle of the wilderness to dinners under the stars, the setting and flavors made every meal unforgettable. The team took great care to create a welcoming atmosphere, and dining often felt like a family gathering, with everyone sharing stories of their day’s adventures.
Jabali Ridge (Northern Ruaha)
Next, I traveled to the northern part of Ruaha to Jabali Ridge, a luxurious lodge perched on a rocky kopje with panoramic views of the savannah below. The 4–5-hour drive from Usangu to Jabali was an adventure in itself, with stunning scenery and wildlife sightings along the way.
The Lodge:
Jabali Ridge is where luxury meets the wild. The open-plan rooms feature screened shutters that let in the cool breeze, ceiling fans for added comfort, and private verandas with incredible views. The blend of contemporary design and natural materials creates a seamless connection to the environment, making you feel like you’re part of the landscape.
The lodge also boasts a stunning infinity pool overlooking the plains—a perfect spot to relax and soak in the views between game drives. In the evenings, I enjoyed candlelit dinners under the baobabs, with the sounds of the bush as the backdrop. It was an atmosphere so magical, it felt like stepping into a dream.
Activities at Jabali:
Jabali Ridge is all about diving into the heart of Ruaha, and the activities here go beyond the usual game drives. One of the highlights of my stay was the guided bush walk. Walking through the wilderness on foot is an entirely different experience—it’s quieter, more intimate, and you notice so much more. Our guide pointed out tracks left by lions the night before, showed us plants used by locals for medicine, and taught us how to read the sounds of the bush. It made me feel truly connected to the land in a way that driving can’t replicate.
The bush breakfasts were another favorite. One morning, after an early drive, we stopped in a quiet clearing to find a table set under a massive baobab tree. The smell of fresh coffee and baked bread mixed with the earthy scents of the savannah as elephants grazed nearby. It wasn’t just breakfast; it was an unforgettable moment of stillness surrounded by nature.
Evenings at Jabali were equally magical. One night, we dined under the stars by lantern light, with the staff surprising us by singing and dancing. Before long, we were all clapping and moving to the rhythm. It was such a joyful, unexpected moment that I couldn’t stop smiling.
From walking the bush to watching wildlife from the lodge, every activity at Jabali felt personal and meaningful. It’s not just about what you do here, but how it makes you feel—completely connected to this extraordinary place.
The Dining Experience:
The food at Jabali Ridge was exceptional, from beautifully plated breakfasts served in the bush to multi-course dinners that rivaled fine dining restaurants. Everything was prepared with fresh, local ingredients, and the attention to detail made each meal an experience to remember.
Wildlife in Ruaha:
Ruaha’s wildlife was some of the most spectacular I’ve seen, with game drives delivering National Geographic-worthy moments on a daily basis. The park is a predator hotspot, home to one of the highest concentrations of carnivores in Africa, but its diversity doesn’t stop there.
- Predators: Ruaha is known for its thriving predator population, including lions, cheetahs, and leopards, which I saw almost daily. The highlight for me was watching a pack of African wild dogs in action—a rare and exhilarating experience that few parks can offer.
- Elephants and Giraffes: Large herds of elephants and graceful giraffes were constant companions during my game drives. Whether feeding near the wetlands or silhouetted against the northern savannahs, they were breathtaking.
- Rare Species: The sable antelope was a standout sighting in Usangu. This elusive and strikingly beautiful antelope is a highlight of Ruaha’s southern wetlands.
- Birdlife: Ruaha’s diverse habitats attract over 570 bird species, making it a birder’s paradise. From vibrantly colored kingfishers in Usangu to mighty eagles soaring over the savannah, the birdlife was as captivating as the big game.
Why Visit Both Camps?
Ruaha is so large and ecologically diverse that staying in just one area doesn’t do the park justice. Each camp immerses you in a completely different ecosystem, showcasing the park’s contrasts and offering a broader perspective of its wildlife and landscapes.
- Southern Ruaha (Usangu Wetlands): This area is remote and untouched, with lush wetlands and open plains that attract a variety of unique species. It’s perfect for those interested in conservation and getting off the beaten path. The wildlife here is less accustomed to vehicles, making the experience feel raw and authentic.
- Northern Ruaha (Jabali Ridge): The northern savannahs are iconic territory, with open plains and rugged hills teeming with predators. This is where you’ll find the quintessential big-game experience, with dramatic predator-prey interactions and stunning views from elevated vantage points.
- Traveling between the two camps takes about 4–5 hours by road, and the journey itself is a mini safari. Along the way, I spotted elephants, giraffes, and even a pride of lions lounging in the shade. By visiting both areas, you get a fuller appreciation of Ruaha’s scale, beauty, and biodiversity.
Nyerere National Park (Selous Game Reserve)
The final stop on my safari was Roho ya Selous, located in Nyerere National Park, the largest protected area in Tanzania. A 2-hour flight brought me to the park, followed by a 90-minute drive to camp. Nyerere is a unique destination, offering a mix of open savannahs, dense woodlands, and vast waterways.
The Camp:
Roho ya Selous combines luxury with an authentic bush experience. The tents are incredibly spacious, featuring under-bed cooling systems that were a lifesaver during the warm afternoons. Each tent had a private deck where I could relax and take in the sights and sounds of the surrounding wilderness. The camp also has a pool overlooking the bush, which became my favorite spot to unwind between activities.
Activities at Roho ya Selous:
One of the highlights of staying at Roho is the variety of activities available. While game drives are a staple, the boat safaris on the Rufiji River were a completely different experience. Drifting along the river, I spotted pods of hippos, crocodiles basking on the banks, and an array of colorful birdlife. It was serene, yet alive with energy. I even gave fishing a try! Although I wasn’t lucky enough to reel anything in, others in my group caught fish, which added to the fun and camaraderie of the experience.
On land, the game drives didn’t disappoint. Nyerere is home to some of the largest giraffe populations I’ve ever seen—we quickly nicknamed it “Giraffic Park.” Watching giraffes move gracefully across the plains in large groups was mesmerizing. The park is also rich in predators, such as lions, leopards, and African wild dogs.
The Dining Experience:
Like the other camps, Roho delivered on the culinary front. Bush breakfasts by the river, afternoon tea on the veranda, and elegant dinners under the stars made every meal a highlight of the day. The staff’s warmth and attention to detail added a personal touch that made the experience even more special.
Asilia’s Extra Touches: Arrival at Arusha Airport
While flying from Tarangire to Dar es Salaam, I had a layover at Arusha Airport, where Asilia’s private lounge was an unexpected luxury. With comfortable indoor and outdoor seating, snacks, and attentive staff, the lounge made my wait seamless. The team kept me updated on my flight details—a huge help since bush flight schedules are always subject to change.
Best Time to Visit
The Southern Circuit, including Ruaha National Park and Nyerere National Park (Selous Game Reserve), offers incredible experiences year-round, but the best time to visit depends on your preferences. Seasonal camp closures, especially during the rainy months, are important to consider when planning your trip.
Recommendation
The dry season (June to October) is ideal for peak wildlife viewing and fully operational camps. For lush landscapes and fewer crowds, visit during the green season (November to mid-March), but check camp availability. Regardless of when you visit, the Southern Circuit promises unforgettable wildlife and an intimate experience.
Final Thoughts
The Southern Circuit is perfect for:
- Seasoned safari-goers who want to explore beyond the Serengeti.
- Travelers seeking a quieter, more exclusive experience.
- Anyone passionate about conservation and meaningful travel.
- Unlike the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, which can be crowded during peak season, the Southern Circuit offers untouched landscapes and intimate wildlife encounters. It’s a trip that feels personal, wild, and deeply connected to nature.
And then there’s Asilia Africa. The name Asilia means “genuine” in Swahili, and it’s a fitting reflection of their camps and service. From the thoughtful design of their accommodations to their conservation efforts, everything they do feels authentic and purposeful. By the end of my trip, I had not only learned a few Swahili phrases but also made connections with staff who felt like family.
If you’re ready to experience a safari that’s as inspiring as it is luxurious, let’s make it happen. The Southern Circuit awaits—and trust me, it’s worth every moment.
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